As pointed out by April K., this percentage method works best for adult proportions. By determining desired stitch and row counts, and then determining the number of increases to make, you arrive at a sweater that fits perfectly. The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. Because knitting is a matter of individual abilities You can definitely think critically about the instructions you encounter in patterns you follow or you could use it to write your own knitting pattern. So watch out for all the patterns, there will be a new one added every couple of days! the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. I have downloaded it into my computer and will have it available any time I need it. Ive designed an awful lot of top-down raglan sweaters and cardigans. If the front neckline is deep (like a scoop or v-neck), the whole sweater may slide down the back. Use spreadsheet software to create custom grid paper that matches your gauge by adjusting the number of pixels in the rows and columns, and then applying a light gray outline to each cell. I am so grateful that you give examples and this excel file.Now I can start to design my own sweaters and I really happy and thankful. Lets dive in and check out why you might want to try knitting a raglan style sweater! This is your desired front neck depth. It's an artifact of the swatch. Jean, I'm so happy to share what I know with others, and I'm glad you think this is useful! Generally I use M1R before and M1L after but reversing it works fine if you keep it consistent. Everything after that is finessing. Lift that stitch up with the left needle (see photo #2). Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. Regards, Sarah. So if youre a designer, youve got a stitch count at the sleeve and a stitch count in the front and back. Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus Womens upper bodies, however, dont necessarily curve in a smooth line: our curves pick up speed and then slow down, so to speak. measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. The test square should be made by We might need to finesse this later, but its a good starting point. It is really helpful! With the left needle tip, reach down and pick up the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on your right needle. When Lisa Shroyer discussed armholes that do and dont work for knitters, she noted the figure attributes that can get in the way of raglan love. Personally Ive never seen a sweater design that suits everybody and that every crocheter or knitter adores wholeheartedly, without reservations. A Full Bust Adjustment for Knit Raglan Tops (Option 1) You must enter a numeric value in all text boxes. That code will be available when you purchase the patterns or digital book. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! My 6 year old has a chest measurement of 23 (rounding up) and a head measurement of 21! Because the top of the sleeve forms the neck edge, the front neck shaping can be included in the final rows of the sleevesangle the top of the cap by working more shaping on the side that will correspond with the front of the body. In the picture to the left, the top swatch is worked with short rows and the bottom is worked with bind-offs, but the shaping is the exact same. Please confirm you want to block this member. Ive struggled with them for longer than I should have, and am learning a lot! Short rows cant accommodate long vertical lines because all the stitches stay live on the needle. I am narrower at the shoulder and wider in the body and hip area. This feature makes it easier to judge the fit and modify accordingly. Here are four different ways to make raglan increases in knitting. You will also need to have stitch holders Is it possible to cut the armhole and add a rhombus or some similar piece? This is a useful construction that allows you to try on the sweater as you go. Anyway, I can deal with it pretty easily, but it does make it a little more tricky for Half of our bottom neck stitches come before the marker. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a If youve drafted a scoop neck instead, youll need to bind off stitches instead of working short rows. How to Knit Lifted Increases (They're Almost Invisible!) - Yay For Yarn Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. the shaping formula - YouTube I figured it out decently enough for my daughter, so I'll do ok with this one, as well - Another option is to eliminate more than two stitches in your first rate A row, which has the added benefit of creating an even more smooth curve. Amy Herzog combines compound shaping with a seamed yoke, so that sleeves and body can be shaped independently of each othershe simply eases the pieces together as she seams, no matter how differently they curve. The reason for this is so that the pattern can be continued down the body when you no longer need raglan increases. A child's proportions are different: Dear Knittingfool, Raglan lost his right arm in the Battle of Waterloo and some have speculated that the raglan style was developed by his tailor to fit better on his armless side than a traditional shoulder and sleeve. or if you are a beginner this pattern may not meet all your needs. The first that I want to talk about is top-down seamless raglan. Cant thank you enough for this detailed explanation and worksheet. You will need to know the number of stitches in the front and each shoulder. Copy the reflected apex to the main sheet and join the dots. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? The raglan sleeve got its name from Englishman FitzRoy James Henry Somerset, the 1st Baron Raglan, who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. Step 4: Finesse your shaping - have you used all your rows? *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. I debated changing the Raglan increases because I generally prefer to have the increase line extend all the way down below the armpit. March 8, 2012 - Lauren. If your pattern has a stitch between the front and the shoulders for the raglan increase itself, assign that stitch to the sleeve. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. Start here! Fortunately, we crocheters and knitters have control over our own garments, and theres no rule demanding a smooth, straight raglan line. For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. Either print and draw right on, or highlight cells to illustrate your dream shaping. In a word, geometry. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Svalbard by Bristol Ivy Twist & Fade Raglan Part 1 Ravin Sekai Designs From the website: "The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. be aware that this pattern is a percentage approximation. What about when I get to the next sleeve? To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. How would I increase these areas to get about a 2inch increase? Is this correct? This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. Since I'm not acquainted with the formula you use yet, I'm not sure if the Because raglan shaping produces such a clear diagonal line on the front and back of the garment, the increases used to add width are often decorative. Because the shoulders and armholes are not well defined on a raglan sweater, there tends to be a little extra fabric in the underarm area. Compound raglans literally bend the curve, adding small arcs along the raglan line that help sweater fabric lay more smoothly on the upper bodys curves. For each raglan curve, reflect it in its 'base': copy the three points defining a raglan curve onto a spare piece of tissue paper, carefully labelling the neckline and the centre front points; turn it over, then align the neckline and centre front points up with the main sheet. Knit the lifted stitch and slide it off of the left needle (see photo #3). In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. Then I admitted to making several top-down raglans as I explained how Id adapt a knitting pattern for yet another one. You'll want to add no more than about 5/8" right beneath the collar, and if you need to make up extra length you can work some short rows in the middle of the back too. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. This pattern includes photo tutorial to make it easy to follow. You start with full raglan increases and then move on to alternating body only rows with full raglan increases so that everything fits right at the bottom of the yoke. To create a raglan, a designer will determine the desired yoke depth, shoulder width (stitches at the neck), neck width, bust circumference, and bicep circumference. The relatively smooth raglan lines on a sweater have to hang over these spots where curves get steeper and shallower. As noted above, the shoulder width creates some space for the neck - equal space in the front and back. But first we come to dividing for the body, which is one of the most exciting parts of a top-down raglan garment . Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. It's knitting a little pocket for a nonexistent neck boob. Yoke depth is determined by the body's dimensions, Raglan shaping needs to mirror the body's shape, "Raising the back neck too quickly," and other short row shaping myths, Myth 1: Short rows in raglans can be worked across the back neck only, Myth 2: Short rows in the neckline can raise the back neck too fast, Modifying a raglan sweater to fit you perfectly. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. us newbies. You can find themhere.Dusty Road and Santa Rosa Plum are both from last summer, and Im still in love with them both :-). Raglan shaping formulas Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. You do this by knitting to the sleeve, using a tapestry needle threaded with waste yarn and slipping all of the sleeve stitches onto the thread (tie it together, so you dont lose the stitches!!). I would not aim for a highly customized fit in a raglan, but you can certainly get a more body-conscious fit in a raglan than you would a drop-shoulder. The shoulder width is less important as there is no set shoulder width. Several other designers, following Maggie Righettis advice from Sweater Design in Plain English, similarly praise compound shaping and its endless flexibility. The Cable Pattern For Body: Sometimes, then, well see necklines that work well in the middle and larger sizes, but because the shoulder gets more narrow as sizes get smaller, the smallest sizes dont have adequate depth. We arent shaped like that! Welcome back to the Sweater Construction series! The waist shaping formula is exactly the same as above. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. of the gauge without the interference of the selvage. This is because you can keep working in the same direction as that type of cast-on. This will be neck shaping rows. This blog post from Amy Herzog is a fantastic resource for different neckline shapes and the shaping rates that create them. Because all the stitches stay on the needle, there would be a large gap between stitches. This week we're going to talk about adding length to your sweater and adding optional waist-shaping. Improv: Basic pattern for a top-down seamless sweater Change the width of the front and back cones, and you affect the sleeve width too. This method of FBA can look kind of odd off a body because of how it changes the appearance of the raglan, but it looks just fine on. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. But you wouldn't solve this by working right back and forth across between the back raglans. You can get that same weird built-up neckline look from a sweater with or without short rows or neck shaping. The shaping for your raglan will fit best if you mirror this S shape - also called compound shaping. Work decreases more closely at the top and bottom, and less frequently in the middle of the raglan line. Sara Dudek similarly acknowledged her appreciation of such sweaters when she dove deeply into design considerations for knitters and crocheters. ??? The arm follows the same pattern, although to a less extreme degree. In the fashion illustration below, the side view reveals a curve just below the neck (between shoulder and high bust), then another curve where high bust becomes full bust. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Every round neck starts with a flat bottom. the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. I just purchased Caelius to knit for my teen daughterit will be my first A-line sweater and I think the Dovestone DK is the perfect yarn. stitch for your test piece, you will have to mentally substitute the name of your pattern stitch Sigma Tee by Melissa Wherle, from the eBook, Easy Seamless Sweaters to KnitAh, the raglan. Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. It would be back and forth in rows although you can still do it after you join in the round and then resume working in the round once the short rows are complete. This takes care of the extra fabric in the armhole area that can arise from the traditional raglan. As long as that shoulder is around 2 wide, you should have adequate room in the back neck without adding extra shaping. I have been using Excel for years to ensure I understand the pattern and to create a clear, clean pattern customized just for me! If a raglan is worked with plenty of positive ease, however, these problems are alleviated. Might be easiest starting with a pattern? Top-Down Knitting - Elizabeth Smith Knits Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. Being a word person, I got to wondering about the origin of the word raglan, so I did a little research. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102, Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows. All of the shaping is the same, only instead of turning away from stitches, youll bind them off. Here are five of the most common raglan adjustments that modern pattern designers use to create a better-fitting top-down seamless sweater. If youve got pattern work near the neck, you can even put those short rows lower down the back as well. If you have an odd number of neck stitches, Bottom neck stitches should also be odd, and if you have an even number of neck stitches, bottom neck stitches should be even. Thank you for the information it is very helpful. You can change the way increases look by adjusting the number of knit stitches between them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.Jean Ritchey. I will say that this method can produce extra fabric in the underarms if your full bust point is low, which is why I'm working on that other post! The Slopes Pullover and Azure Lake Sweater feature circular-yoke shaping, decorated with seamless patterning. The most basic would be a kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch). Reduce the number of bottom neck stitches or work fewer rate A rows. If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. You can use Kniterator to DIY your own basic top-down raglan sweater, yoke sweater, camisole, or cowl - all in your size and your gauge. Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. Knitting is about 90% (don't quote me on that %, it's an estimate) math, and that's what Excel is great at, so it's pretty natural, I think, to use them together. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. Interested in getting technical content, inspiration, and fit tips delivered directly to your inbox? So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other Great job and thank you for sharing! How to knit a raglan decrease / Knit Along Day 5 - Hands Occupied UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? This gives you 8 increases (or decreases). To help you apply this to your own project, I've created a downloadable PDF worksheet - you can get that here: I have noticed that neckline shaping is most often omitted when theres colorwork, and knitting (and designing) a colorwork sweater is easiest when worked from the bottom up. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. Karen Templer of Fringe Association notes that when she employs compound shaping, she can use top-down raglan methods to produce a sweater with sleeves akin to saddle shoulder styles. Also the all sizes _inc formula messes up all of my numbers. try to match someone else's gauge. Download Knitting Plus or Easy Seamless Sweaters to Knit! One last thing - about that short row shaping rate. Great for those new to crochet! Both sleeve cap and yoke are truncated triangles. IMO. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. A knitter who does excel! Round to an even number. Increases are made around four fixed points. If rows used in shaping is FEWER rows than you calculated, youll need to eliminate stitches more slowly. Thank you so much. Knowing your gauge is This decorative seam continues down into the a-line body and forms the focus of interest for the sweater. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. Add a few rows to the yoke to make it deeper, or decrease fewer times in the sleeve to make the shoulders wider. Somewhat Stretchy : Raglan pattern the top. One question shows up again and again: What formula do you use to shape a raglan? You also have a stitch count in the shoulder and neck. If youre used to knitting a shaping row every other row from the neck to the body, it can be a surprise to learn thats not always going to work. I just finished a raglan sweater, and Im really enjoying wearing it. In contrast, the raglan line on Lily Chins Floret Crochet Crop Top, with traditional shaping, forms a straight line. So when I pop in the measurements there is NO WAY that thing fits Raglans have no shoulder seam; the expanding sleeve cap becomes the shoulder of the garment. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. The casual, sporty look of raglans gives them a somewhat youthful look that has long made them a favorite in knitwear. It starts with a cowl neck, uses short rows to shape the back of the neck and then uses raglan increases on either side of a decorative seam. If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! For some women, the knitted sweater construction can result in sleeves appearing too short and too tight, and can create discomfort at the underarm and armhole. Im familiar with the general concenpt, but unsure of how Ill know where to start the raglan increases. Kniterator, the top-down raglan knitting pattern calculator 5 Top-Down Sweater Styles Explained | Interweave Interestingly, in the Crimean War Baron Raglan fought alongside British Army General James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, after whom the cardigan sweater is named! Knitting a Raglan Sweater Pattern the Simple Way | Interweave Heres the thing - if youre used to working the same shaping all the way from the neck to the underarm, you may have noticed that creates a very straight line, and fundamentally is making a rectangular pyramid. How do I know where to put them, so that it will fit on me? Its typical to leave a stitch on either side of the raglan shaping. For many women, these are unfortunate places for excess fabric. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks. Please note: Written for a bust measurement of 34 inches around the underarm, with about 6 inches of positive ease. and markers. We dont reach our widest measurement until several inches below the underarm (and the larger you are, the truer that tends to be!). I enjoy raglan sweater knitting, and I know you will, too. This gives each section a triangular shape. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Working a smaller size and realize the yoke is too shallow? How to improvise a top-down sweater, Part 5: The art of sweater shaping Feel free to ask! If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. Add a few stitches to your bicep to give yourself some extra room. Why? Yarn overs may be used on a womens garment, or a cable or another decorative feature may be worked along the raglan line to bring more emphasis to the shaping. I have included mostly simple sweaters using the raglan sweater construction. To counter them, add a few extra decreases in the yoke. To illustrate this, here are two swatches, both worked with the exact same shaping rate as suggested above. are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Pattern Highlight - Cinders Posted on 25 Aug 07:02, The Top-Down Cordage Pullover Posted on 30 May 10:50, A Unique Spring Top - Homa Posted on 29 Apr 07:10, There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! This seemed like a perfect opportunity to talk a bit about different types of seamless construction as there are 4 different seamless methods used in Dovestone Hills. The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a are different: I love your site, especially the raglan seamless sweater calculator. In Melissa Wherles Sigma Tee, she uses dropped stitches along the raglan sleeve shaping. The front and back views show how shoulders slope downwards quickly near the neck, then more gently until they reach their full width. It is used to suggest a smaller needle size for the ribbing. Ideally the test Short Row Shaping at the Back Neck. The bottom up method is generally seamed together but the seaming is actually very simple because each area to be seamed is a straight line rather than the curved line of a traditional set in sleeve. Overall the lack of structure particularly at the shoulders can make for a less durable sweater. up from around the armhole. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top-down and involves a long, slanted (or sometimes curved) seam running from the neck to the underarm. which most of your sweater will be done. Raglan: [biographical name] 1st Baron 1788-1855 FitzRoy James Henry Somerset British field marshal. Because the raglan lines draw the eye in from the curves of the bust, theyre quite flattering on curvy womenemphasizing the bust while creating a look of feminine narrowness across the shoulders. Whichever unit you use, be sure not to round. I think many simple designs can be explained as formulasthough it's not the norm, so people don't tend to do it very often. The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest Post your comments or questions here, or to get questions answered, interact with other knitters and find more free stuff, join my students group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/knittingclasses/If you haven't done so already, I hope you'll like my knitting classes page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/knittingclasses NOTE: subtract F from this number to get the number you are increasing to during the raglan shaping. BTWmany of the Dovestone patterns are on my project list :). raglans darts button hole placement skirt flares bias knitting gathered sleeves circular yokes If you need to increase (or decrease) a specific number of stitches within a specific number of rows there is a reliable way to calculate this. Start by eliminating two stitches per turn (if working German Short rows, this means youll work until there is 1 stitch before the double stitch, then turn your work) until half your stitches to shape out are eliminated. Lily Chin said it first, and since her expert advice inspired and enhanced the series, she must be right! I hope that these examples get you started thinking about how much control you have over your raglan knitting projects :), 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 As Jennifer Wood explains in Refined Knits (and further explicated in a helpful emailthanks, Jennifer! We know well need to close the gap between our bottom neck stitches and our neck stitches by eliminating stitches as we work towards the neck. Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. Whether . Raglan. :), I am currently knitting your Travelers End pattern and I am loving the cable pattern. Finished bust measurement pre-wet blocking of 38.5 inches, and post blocking of 41 inches. Hello Carol, This is so helpful. The line you measure should be perpendicular to the floor, not at an angle to the middle of the neck (see illustration above). For the raglan inc, when you add in the different directions for sleeve increases only or body increases only, those formulas do not seem to add up. lol Raglan - Knittingfool This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from This is Linda, wearing Soft Structure, which has a shallow V-neck, and more increases in the front than the back - worked beneath the underarm. When I think about it I think Im just following and exaggerating the way the individual stitches lean so it wouldnt matter- when I get to the next sleeve I would do them in the same order.
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